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poster

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100

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It's one of the hardest routes on a north face that's not lacking in them: No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses, 30 pitches of mixed, ice and rock, sometimes dubious, sometimes compact. Opened in 1986 by Jan Porvaznik and Stanislav Glejdura, No Siesta has seen a few repeats that have made it a legend: first solo in 3 days by Patrice Glairon-Rappaz in 2000, first winter and free by Robert Jasper in 2003. For the past ten years, the (rare) repeaters have been setting off on this route in the fall, or winter. Christophe Dumarest knows the north face of the Jorasses well: and for good reason, with this ascent of No Siesta his counter shows twelve routes on the north face! Not far from being a record, no doubt. Roped up with Briton Tom Livingstone, the team climbed No Siesta with two bivouacs. A short and successful film about what remains one of the most famous routes in the Alps.

poster

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100

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The most legendary 'sequence' ever achieved by a mountaineer: on 12 and 13 March 1987, in 40 hours, 26-year-old Christophe Profit managed to climb three of the highest north faces in the Alps, in winter: Grandes Jorasses, Eiger, and Matterhorn. But over and above this 'coverage' of the feat, we discover the wings, the story behind the project, the peaks and troughs of the preparations for it, and the personality of the man behind the climbs, a dancer on sheer rock faces, focusing all the energy and reflexes of life itself in his fingertips.

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